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in the world, and West Hollywood, a diverse mélange of gays, Russians and musicians, are cities but completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles. Seventy miles of beaches run along LA County's southwest border. Malibu, an exclusive seaside community, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the area. To the north of the city of LA, hikers and mountain climbers can explore trails in the Santa Monica Mountains. To the east, the San Gabriel Mountains rise up to more than 10,000 feet above sea level. City & Town Los Angeles, the second largest city in the nation, dominates the county. Writer Dorothy Parker once quipped, "Los Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city." Now, well over 100 neighborhoods in LA form a rich cultural stew. Meander around downtown LA's Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Art and Fashion Districts, the Latino enclaves around Echo Park, Hollywood's Laurel Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town or Melrose District where hipsters shop. When in LA, do as the celebs do and start the day in downward dog at Bryan Kest's Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica. Go shopping at Fred Segal, an LA institution known for cult beauty and makeup brands. Need an outfit for an awards show? Head over to Decades on Melrose Avenue, a couture vintage store where many stylists choose red-carpet gowns for their star clients. Hungry? Eat at The Ivy, a Beverly Hills institution known for its casual chic atmosphere and the steady flow of celebrities lunching there. Or chow down on a Chili dog at Pink's in Hollywood. Watch an LA Lakers basketball game at the Staples Center and see stars on the court and in the stands. End the day sipping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont on Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood, where celebrities meet their agents and studio execs. Hollywood Conceived originally as an outdoor billboard promoting a housing development called "Hollywoodland" in 1923, the Hollywood sign sits on the south side of Mount Lee and Griffith Park—long a symbol that this is a place where dreams can come true. The first movie studio, the Nestor Motion Picture Company, opened in the fall of 1911 in Hollywood on the northwest corner of Sunset Boulevard and Gower Street. It was absorbed by the Universal Film Manufacturing Company, which later became Universal Studios. By the 1920s, 80 percent of the world's films were shot in California. Learn more about Tinsel Town's history, and experience its memorabilia at The Hollywood Museum. Or participate in the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences events and get swept up in the pre-Oscar buzz. The Great Outdoors Despite its car culture rap, LA County offers lots of outdoor activities. Rent a bike along the Santa Monica Pier and ride down the path that parallels the ocean, through Venice and on to Marina del Rey before doubling back. Pack a picnic lunch and hike Echo Mountain in Altadena or the Arroyo Seco trail system in the San Gabriel Mountains. Sign up for rock climbing instruction, or take a surfing lesson from one of the many surfing centers in Santa Monica. Or DRIVE TOUR MULHOLLAND DRIVE offers spectacular views of the HOLLYWOOD BOWL, the LA BASIN and SAN FERNANDO VALLEY. It's about 24 miles from the 405 freeway to Hwy 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the KODAK THEATER, home of the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the "Valley." Return to Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater. Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn right on Woodrow Wilson and an immediate right onto CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood. 104 2013 travel guide to c al i fo r n ia