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90 2 0 1 5 T R A V E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A THE 17-MILE-LONG Sonoma Valley holds much that today's travelers are seeking: a "real" down-home wine country with world- class accommodations and restaurants. "The Valley of the Moon," as it is often called, lies within vast Sonoma County, just 45 minutes north of San Francisco. Acres of rolling farmlands and well-tended vineyards include the towns of Sonoma, Glen Ellen and Kenwood. There are more than 13,000 acres of parkland and more than 40 wineries, many of which are organic and biodynamic. In fact, the area is a leader in sustainable travel and ecotourism, including "green" activities such as hiking, biking and horse- back riding. In the heart of it all is the town of Sonoma's shady eight-acre plaza surrounded by acclaimed restaurants, boutiques, wine tasting rooms and food shops, such as the culinary store Williams-Sonoma, which returned to its original location in 2014. Among the historic sites is Mission San Fran- cisco Solano de Sonoma, which dates from 1823 and was the last in the string of California missions constructed by Franciscan friars. A combination of Mediterranean climate, ideal soil and geography makes Sonoma Valley one of the finest wine producing regions in the world. Two wineries within a short distance of the plaza are among the oldest in California: Buena Vista, founded by a Hungarian count, Agostin Haraszthy, who planted grapes in the valley in 1851; and Sebas- tiani, the oldest continuous family-run winery in Sonoma Valley. Both offer tours that trace the roots of Sonoma's wine industry. The idyllic town has garnered many acco- lades, including one of the "friendliest" cities in America by Condé Nast Traveler; a "Bicycle- Friendly Community" by the League of American Bicyclists; and America's first "Slow Food" city, recognizing its wine, food and sustainable "slow" lifestyle. The charming town of Glen Ellen six miles north was once home to renowned writers MFK Fisher and Jack London, whose forested ranch makes up Jack London State Historic Park. The valley's events calendar is packed year round with a bustling Tuesday night farmers market, Cinco de Mayo festivities, outdoor summer concerts and NASCAR weekends. Sonoma Valley is also proud to welcome LGBT travelers with TAG-approved lodging and an annual Gay Wine Weekend. For trip planning, see sonomavalley.com. SONOMA VALLEY Fine food, superb wine and loads of history B Y L A U R A D E L R O S S O SUNSET OVER A VINEYARD in Sonoma Valley, above; picnic on Sonoma's plaza, below. GARY C. TOGNONI/SONOMA VALLEY CVB; DOUGLAS THOMPSON/SONOMA VALLEY CVB