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landscapes of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and Joshua Tree National Park, where boulder formations prove an exciting chal- lenge for climbers. Fabulous winter weather spells Nirvana for hikers, rock-climbers, cyclists and other outdoorsy folk. Incising the slopes of the San Jacinto Mountains, the three Indian Canyons tempt hikers with 30 miles of trails and picnic sites. Fed by natural springs, stands of desert fan palms crowd the canyon floors, providing sheltering oases for kit fox, bighorn sheep and coyote. Ancient petro- glyphs can be seen while hiking Andreas Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon, with its spec- tacular 60-foot-tall waterfall. Cultural Connections Culture vultures delight to find the desert is far from dry. The Native American Agua Caliente occupied the Palm Springs region long before Europeans arrived. Their proud legacy is on show at the Agua Caliente Cul- tural Museum in downtown Palm Springs. History buffs also delight in the Palm Springs Air Museum, replete with World War II-era warplanes from a P-51 Mustang to a B-17 Flying Fortress. The monied elite that pours into Palm Springs for the winter is a huge patron of the arts. Hollywood star and long-time resident Kirk Douglas was a major donor to the Palm Springs Art Museum, one of California's top regional art venues—its Plein Art, MesoAmerican and Contemporary Glass collections are outstanding. Down valley, more than 150 unique works of art decorate the streets of Palm Desert, grouped for four self-guided tours. Colorful murals grace historic downtown Indio, painting a big picture on the city's past. And since 2005, visitors can explore the vast Sunnylands Estate, in Rancho Mirage, where billionaire Walter Annenberg hosted President Richard Nixon after he resigned in 1974, and President Ronald Reagan on a score of New Year's Eves. Festivals to Casinos Palm Springs has festivals to please every taste. The season kicks off in January with the Palm Springs International Film Fes- tival, when Hollywood's finest hit town. In March, the world-class Indian Wells Tennis Garden fills to overflowing for the annual BNP Paribas Open. And in April, be there or be square for the Coachella Music Festival, hosted in the warm open air of neighboring Indio. Almost 200 performers rock half a million attendees; unannounced surprise performances have included Beyoncé, Paul McCartney and Gwen Stefani. Higher culture? Palm Desert's McCallum Theater resounds to laughter and cheers of delight with a lineup that can range from Itzhak Perlman and The Vienna Boys Choir to The Nutcracker ballet and the Peking Acrobats. Since the valley's Cahuilla Indian terri- tory is a sovereign nation, it's exempt from California's state ban on gambling. Try your hand with Lady Luck at any of half a dozen casinos. Most have venues that host class acts from world-title boxing to top performers such as Kesha, Sheena Easton, and the desert's own Barry 114 2 0 1 7 T R A V E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A INSIDER'S TIP » You don't need wheels to get around Palm Springs. The city thoughtfully operates "The Buzz"—four trolleys that follow a circuit between the RIVIERA RESORT AND SAGUARO HOTEL via downtown and the major sites. The courtesy shuttles run 11 a.m.- 1 a.m., perfect for night-owl par- tying. Plus, a "Buzz Perk Card" offers discounts and perks at local businesses. new.buzzps.com MIGUEL NORIEGA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR ; RANDY HEINITZ/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR . OPPOSITE: SIERRALARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ; SUMIKOPHOTO/S HUTTERSTOCK COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL, top; vintage car show during Modernism Week in Palm Springs, above; cholla cactus sunrise, Joshua Tree National Park, opposite top; wildflowers in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, opposite below.