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»CA.RAILWAY JOURNEYS Sunshine and Starlight by jan rodricks Panoramic views of mountains, redwoods and surf reward California's railroad travelers On June 4, 1876, the first express train to connect New York and San Francisco arrived in Oakland after a journey of less than four days. The trip must have seemed miraculous to 19th-century travelers; before that date, a coast-to-coast trip had taken months. In contrast, the first railroad to follow the Pacific coast— from Los Angeles to Seattle—wasn't completed until 1971! California loves its trains, and with good reason. The railroads transecting the Golden State cross some of North America's most spectacular scenery: redwood forests, mountain ranges, whitewater rivers and coastal panoramas. Some are short, scenic excursions. Others are workhorse routes, carrying commuters between the capitals of California commerce. 78 2 013 travel guide to c al ifo r n i a AMTRAK'S CALIFORNIA Zephyr above; a family enjoys the sightseeing car, right; sign for the Napa Valley Wine Train, below. AMTRAK Founded in 1971 to provide intercity passenger train service across the country, Amtrak serves 46 of the 50 states and three Canadian provinces on 21,000 miles (34,000 km) of track. AMTRAK (2); TERRASTUDIO.NET Amtrak Adventures Any discussion of California rail trips begins with Amtrak's Coast Starlight. Before it crosses the state's northern border, passengers take in a sampler of California's greatest hits. Whether you board at Los Angeles' venerable Union Station or Oakland's historic Jack London Square, you'll see snow-capped peaks, lush forests and shimmering shorelines. The full trip, from LA to Seattle, takes 35 hours. But accolades for "most beautiful train trip in North America" are lavished on Amtrak's California Zephyr, a 51hour ride connecting San Francisco and Chicago. This adventure begins daily in Emeryville (across the bay from San Francisco) and climbs two mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada to Reno, and the Rockies to Denver (you can also get off at Truckee, and visit Lake Tahoe). If a desert crossing beckons, Amtrak's Southwest Chief connects LA with Chicago via the Mojave. Three other popular trains are operated by Amtrak. The Capital Corridor