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SAN FRANCISCO by laura del rosso Visitors still leave their hearts in "The City by the Bay" THE PALACE of Fine Arts, illuminated at dusk, above, is one of the city's most romantic sights; a cable car crests Nob Hill, below. IN JUST 49 SQUARE MILES , San Fran- cisco contains more scenic beauty, neighborhood diversity, good food and a greater range of arts and culture than any U.S. city of its size. The landmark Golden Gate Bridge, cable cars, Alcatraz and Fisherman's Wharf are synonymous with the City by the Bay, also known for an atmosphere of tolerance that stretches back to the Gold Rush, when one of the largest migrations in human history brought thousands west. There's a renewed vitality in many parts of the city: The restored 1898-era Ferry Building houses a food hall that showcases Northern California's agricultural bounty and launched a boom along the Embarcadero waterfront. The former Presidio military base has been transformed into a vast national park that includes the Walt Disney Family Museum, other new attractions and miles of walking and biking trails. The architecturally striking de Young Museum, California Academy of Sciences and a waterfront promenade lined with palm trees and restored piers are part of a 21st-century renaissance that stretches from the Embarcadero to Golden Gate Park. San Francisco also is one of the great U.S. cities for food and dining, with a wide variety of ethnic cuisine, and locals who spend more on eating out than residents of any other American city. Culture is abundant, with world-class museums, theater, opera, symphony and ballet, helped by a public commitment that pre-dates the National Endowment for the Arts. The year ahead is filled with developments and events. The SFJAZZ Center, the first facility exclusively built for jazz performances on the West Coast, opens in San Francisco's Civic Center and a new Bay Bridge span between Treasure Island and Oakland—the biggest public works project in California history—makes its debut as a towering regional landmark. The Exploratorium opens in its new home at Pier 15 and the World Baseball Classic comes to AT&T Park before the opening of Major League Baseball. And, the focus of the sailing world turns to the bay with one of the world's top international sports events, the 34th America's Cup sailing races, taking place July through September. For trip planning to these and other events, see sanfrancisco.travel. CA 2 0 1 3 t r av e l g u i d e to c a l i f o rnia 89